| You should tune your kite to adjust to wind conditions and
to correct errors in performance. On my "Basic" page I will show you some very simple things you should know. The process of tuning a kite is simple if you know what to look for and what (how) to do. The images are based on a nice kite book by David Gomberg. I got great help with the text by James Ervin of Blue Ridge Kites. |
| 1. Typically stunt kites come with two lines attached to a clip (on each side). One line (the Cross Line) is not always adjustable. |
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| The clips can be adjusted on the other (longer) one (the Main Line). The main line will either be the line running from the center T fitting to the upper leading edge connector or from the lower leading edge connector to the upper leading edge connector. This varies from kite to kite as some manufactures place the non-adjustable of "dead leg" of the bridle in different locations. | |||
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| 2. On most kites the Main Line has a mark on it (near the clip). The mark is just a reference spot not a "magic" location. If you move the Main Line so the mark fits the clip, there is no guaranty that this is the best position for your kite. It is just a starting point. In fact, the reference point on the main line will usually not be the ideal starting point as many manufactures position this mark in such a location as to be visible when the kite is properly tuned. |
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| 3. Make all your adjustments small. 1-2mm (1/4'') is enough. Fly the kite after you modified the bridle. |
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| 4. Whenever you adjust you bridle, be certain to adjust both sides equally. First move one clip and then adjust the second to match the first one. To check the clips, pull down the clips so that the parts of the Main Line leading from the clips to the nose are taut. |
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| 5. You can move the clip UP or FORWARD or LIGHTER. Wich means TOWARDS THE NOSE of the kite. You can move the clip DOWN or BACK or HEAVIER. Wich means TOWARDS THE BASE of the kite. |
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Copyright 1995/96/97 by Detlef Beyer